After crashing from yesterday’s adventures in Kanazawa, we must have slept for about 11 hours! It was a great reset, adjusting us perfectly to Japanese time, and we woke up feeling refreshed and ready to explore.
We filled up on breakfast and decided to walk off some of those calories by wandering around the nearby area. Fortunately, the Nagamachi Samurai Residence and neighborhood were just around the corner, a place we’d heard was historically home to samurais. Instantly intrigued, we knew we had to check it out.
Walking through the quaint streets, it’s evident why the samurai chose to live here. The houses are stunning! Some even remain preserved in their original form, providing a glimpse into the past of the Samurai District.
Though mostly a residential area now, there are still a few treasures you can explore. One such gem is the Nomura Samurai Family House, known for its beautiful gardens and rooms. After paying a small entry fee, we strolled through the gardens.
While not much here is in English, the helpers are always willing to try and answer any questions. We even saw ancient scrolls where a samurai once wrote a thank-you note; I found it sweet until I learned he was thanking someone for delivering his enemy’s head! That was a twist!
After that unexpected piece of history, we learned about a tea experience upstairs. Being British, I couldn’t resist, so we hurried up without hesitation. Though it wasn’t a traditional, hours-long tea ceremony, it was still delightful. I quickly remembered why the Japanese serve something sweet with green tea— its bitterness is always a surprise to me.
Running short on time, we decided to wrap up our visit and head back to our hotel, ready to venture to Hakusan City next in the Ishikawa Prefecture.
Grabbing our bags, we caught a train on the Kitatestu Ishikawa line, ready for a change of scenery in the more natural and rural Hakusan City. About 30-45 minutes later, we arrived, eager to explore this quieter place after the busy day in Kanazawa. Just across from the station was the city hall, where we found some electric bikes. I’m a big fan of them because they let me feel like I’m doing cardio without breaking too much of a sweat. But the weather wasn’t on our side. A sprinkle quickly turned into rain, and we decided to pack it in. Apparently, Mother Nature wasn’t in the mood to let us exercise.
With the rain coming down, we chose to have an early lunch at Ohagiya, where we could try making sasazushi, a sushi type wrapped in bamboo leaves. I was starving, and preparing food always makes me hungrier. I rushed through making my sasazushi, whereas Yaya took his time, perfecting every detail.
After lunch, we decided to visit the Shirayama-Hime Shrine nearby. It’s special because it’s the head shrine of around 3,000 Shirayama shrines in Japan, making it a significant spot. Dedicated to Mt. Hakusan, it offers a water purification ceremony you can arrange in advance.
We walked up the ancient paths lined with cedar trees to reach the shrine, which felt almost surreal. After about 10 minutes, we arrived at the foot of the shrine and organized our purification ceremony for the next day.
Determined to make the most of the day, we then headed to the Shishiku Highlands by gondola, rain or shine. Unfortunately, as we climbed, the rain persisted, and the thick fog set in, leaving us without the views we’d hoped for. After waiting for a bit, we accepted defeat and opted for some indoor activities.
Thankfully, we found a local spot where people make crafts from bamboo leaves. We dove right into it, although I wasn’t very good and needed a lot of help. I did manage to add a googly eye!
As the rain got heavier due to an approaching typhoon, we decided to surrender to the weather and retreat to our Ryokan, Wataya, in Tsurugimachi. As soon as we stepped in, I realized how special the place was. Next to the shrine we’d visited earlier, the Ryokan was breathtaking. We settled into our room, warmed up with some green tea, and relaxed.
The property was beautiful, and each room had its own firepit on the wooden porch, making for a serene setting. After a few hours of relaxation, we visited the Onsen before heading to dinner.
The quiet, composed environment set the mood for a Kaiseki dinner, which is a multi-course meal served beautifully over a number of hours. We had enjoyed this type of dining before on Kyushu Island, and it was just as delightful here. We feasted on local vegetables and raw fish, followed by ‘sweetfish,’ freshly caught and cooked on our firepit. Sweetfish is aptly named for its distinctly sweet flavor, quite different from regular fish like cod or tuna.
Once we were full, we decided to call it a night. While we had been chatting and eating, housekeeping had prepared our beds, ready for us to slip right into. It was pure bliss.
